Of sky rises and garbage heaps

My calender indicates that I left Hanoi a mere 10 days ago,  a time span in which I have been fortunate enough to experience the hustle and bustle of HCMC, drive a moto through rain and ocher- coloured mud in Dalat, pay a short visit to Siem Reap and take in the imposing construction works of Hindu and Buddhist kings alike (or rather that of their subjects). Presently I am in Kuala Lumpur obeying my true nature as a fully fledged foodie, trawling lines of hawker stalls, and familiarizing myself with the intricacies of the mamak food culture. It is a thoroughly enjoyable activity I must agree.

The city seems to share a certain likeness with the urban landscape of Dubai, sky rises and luxury malls abundant in the city center. A great array of nationalities populate the streets, from locals to expats to the tourists such as me passing by for a few days.  Having splurged on a more upscale hotel, I and my boyfriend are set up quite nicely, fluffy bed, wireless in-room internet connection, daily newspaper delivered each morning. We walk the streets freely, eat whatever we want when we want, duck into air conditioned temples of consumerism when the heat becomes too much. I guess that’s KL.

From dusk the streets fill with peddlers, parading their ware on plastic tarps lain out on the ground, their children playing nearby. On the pavement the same beggar in the same spot, his face and head turned downwards, arms stretched out, hands forming a cup for good Samaritans to place some ringgits in. Down backstreets and alleys, heaps of garbage piles up, and worn-down housing projects hide from the eyes of most visitors.  KL too. There is also this:

http://www.nst.com.my/Current_News/NST/articles/20090720204545/Article

Fumes and speed

I did it. I drove a moto today.

My dear friend Nicole took me to Tay Ho area for some hours of driver’s ed 101. At first anxiety, apprehension, visions of crashes and body parts strewn across the road. Not entirely conducive to my willingness to mount the beast. Some instructions on gas handle and footbrake. Tryouts, up and down a single stretch of ridiculously few meters. Then cautious bubbles of an ingenue’s joy. Enter the changing of gears. Now a longer stretch with in-motion turns. In comes signaling. Again a longer stretch, engine spinning. Increase speed, change gears. Engine roaring. Exhilaration and astonishment at the feat.

Tomorrow driver’s ed intermediary anticipated with eagerness like that of a kid on Christmas morning. Perhaps my mentor can snap a shot for ye of little faith and disbelief (present company included).

Stream of consciousness

The goodbye girls

Nothing much to report at the moment other than the usual ramblings and antics of a mind slowly unraveling or perhaps re-raveling. Attempting to get work done but find it difficult to focus my mind. It is that thing, you know, trying to return to something you have already put passed you, it is done with and concluded. It is damn near impossible.

Bizarre feeling going in to office today, went in early to have the option to slip out before my colleagues arrived. Instead ended up staying there until the floor was practically filled up. After a series of greetings, inquiries about my trip to Bangkok and compliments on my new bob, I attempted to work for a few hours whilst two of my colleagues had an ongoing, lively, no downright loud discussion about 15 cm from my head. Gave it up and in plain sight ‘snug’ out, throwing some white lie at them, my back already through the doorway. How come it’s so difficult going back?

Walked around Hoan Kiem Lake yesterday evening. Love the cacophony of voices chattering, motos and cars honking away, street vendors peddling their goods to locals and tourists alike, the sight of the city in the glare from the neon signs, and colored lanterns and small lights in the trees, the freshness of the air brought in by the rains.

Saturday off to meet boyfriend in HCMC and then 3 weeks of travel. Looking forward to take in new experiences, places, people and last but not least foods with him. Smile on my face.

The small things and King of Toothpicks

Finally seem to have gotten my bearings on Hanoi again, spent the better part of yesterday just enjoying my own company, getting lost on my bicycle around the city. It’s been a while since I’ve had/taken the time to do that.

Armed with Murakami’s Norwegian Wood, my glasses (which for two years now have not been the sufficient strength) and a smile on my face, I went by my old house to see off a dear friend and consequently had my bicycle tuned up at my local Corner Repair Guy. Upon arrival he promptly offered me his seat in the shade and got straight to work on my bike.

I could not have been any more content, the sun casting a favorable light on Phan Dinh Phung, the familiar sound of motos on the road (these days Bangkok is almost all about cars, sky trains and buses), the green tree canopy above me. As a bonus the construction worker from across the street, whom old nice Repair Guy had been having a conversation with, started chatting me up.

Good things come to those who wait; I received compliments on my youthful, pretty looks, and was treated to a flexing of biceps whilst Construction Guy repeatedly stressed that in spite of his impressive physical strength and surprisingly full head of hair, he was actually 56 years old. I, in turn, as the rules of the male-female encounter ritual rules prescribe, returned all the compliments whilst occasionally returning to my book. Within half an hour, I had a new tire on my bike, the brakes tightened and a marriage proposal in the back hand in case I should tire of my (according to Construction Guy’s gesturing unnecessarily) tall Western boyfriend. Life is good.

On a completely unrelated side note (but part of what made yesterday so great) I really wish I had more time in Hanoi to map out the quality of toothpicks at different eating establishments in the city. Went to Tamarind, enjoying a particularly cheesy lunch and the discovery that wearing glasses that make you see the world in a slightly blurry way, also (for me at least) endows you with something of a invisibility cloak not unlike that of a certain short person with hairy feet and toes (yes, I see the irony in that this description could well be of myself).
It’s a “I can’t see you, ergo you cannot see me” kinda logic I’m getting at. But I’m digressing from the subject matter at hand.

Upon finishing my lunch I asked for a toothpick and received the mother of all toothpicks, made out of plastic, sky blue with a pointy hook in the one end and a flossing device in the other! Amazing.
I considered for several seconds to wipe it off and discretely place in it my bag but the waitress (having been hovering around me for the last 3 hours) removed my plate, napkins, lemon wedge, and toothpick wonder in one fell swoop. Which accounts for why this post does not feature a pic of this revelation of teeth hygiene instruments.

At com binh dan with friends today I also encountered a specimen of high quality, albeit one made of wood but very pointy in both ends and unusually sturdy. It made me lament the loss of the Wonder Pick even more… Perhaps I can pass on the torch to someone out there, creating perhaps the world’s first Toothpick Olympic games?